Front CV Axle Replacement

Replace a 5th-gen 4Runner front CV axle with a Toyota OEM unit (PN 43430-60083) in two to four hours; torque the axle nut to 174 ft-lbs and use the updated nut PN 90177-A0023 with new OEM axles.

Front CV axles on the 5th gen 4Runner (2010-onward) and the related GX460 typically fail from torn boots first. The boot rips on rocks or against a poorly clearanced UCA after a lift, grease flings out, the joint runs dry, and within a few thousand miles you have a clicking sound on tight turns under throttle. Once you hear the click, the joint is done — re-booting at that stage is a temporary fix. Replace the axle assembly.

Toyota OEM is the honest answer for stock or moderately lifted 4Runners that see daily driving. The OEM axle (43430-60083 fits both sides on 2011-2024 4Runners and FJ Cruisers) is rebuildable, the boots last twice as long as most aftermarket boots, and the joint stays quiet at full droop with lift. Expect about $400-450 for the OEM unit. Note that current production OEM axles require the updated axle nut (90177-A0023) — buy two if you're doing both sides.

Aftermarket options like GSP Premium Loaded or Cardone Select run $140-170 and are acceptable for stock-height 4Runners. They will not hold up as well on a lifted truck running 33s or 34s and dropping into the throttle in 4-low. The cheapest econo-brand axles ($60-90) bind at lift-height droop angles and tear boots within a year — skip them.

If you are lifted more than 2.5 inches up front, you are running the CV at angles it was never designed to operate at. The two things that prolong axle life on a lifted 4Runner are: (1) limiting down-travel with proper bumpstops so the CV never goes past its safe angle, and (2) upgrading to aftermarket upper control arms that re-locate the upper ball joint to keep the spindle more vertical. Without those changes, even an OEM CV axle is on a clock.

Common mistake: forgetting to back off the axle nut before lifting the truck. The nut requires 174 ft-lbs of torque to remove and the wheel needs to be on the ground (or a helper holding the brake) so the hub doesn't spin.

Steps

1. Loosen the front lug nuts, then loosen the axle nut while the wheel is still on the ground — staking-clip side must be unpeened first using a punch.
2. Jack the front, set jack stands under the frame rails, and remove the wheel.
3. Pull the brake caliper off and hang it from the coil spring with mechanic's wire. Do not unhook the brake line.
4. Remove the rotor.
5. Disconnect the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle (19mm castle nut, cotter pin first).
6. Loosen and remove the two lower control arm bolts at the spindle (19mm). Do not disturb the LCA-to-frame bolts — those affect alignment.
7. Pull the axle nut off completely. Swing the knuckle outward and pull the CV stub out of the hub. If it's stuck, give it a few persuasive hits with a brass drift on the threaded end.
8. Pry the inner CV joint out of the front differential with a pry bar against the inner cup. Catch the small amount of diff fluid that leaks.
9. Wire-brush both the hub splines and the differential output splines. Apply anti-seize to the hub splines.
10. Slide the new axle's inner joint into the differential — it should click into the C-clip with firm hand pressure. If it won't seat, you'll need to tap it home gently with a soft mallet.
11. Reconnect the outer stub through the hub, reinstall the LCA bolts and torque to 118 ft-lbs, reconnect the tie rod (67 ft-lbs castle nut, new cotter pin).
12. Install the NEW axle nut (PN 90177-A0023 if running new OEM axle). Torque to 174 ft-lbs with the wheel on the ground. Stake the nut collar into the groove on the axle.
13. Reinstall rotor, caliper, and wheel. Torque lug nuts to 83 ft-lbs.
14. Check front diff fluid level — top off if any was lost during the swap.

Why it works

• Stops the clicking and prevents stranding when the joint finally lets go
• OEM-quality axles last 100,000+ miles on a stock-height truck
• Clean access compared to many other vehicles — no ABS sensor or vacuum disconnect to fight

Trade-offs

• Axle nut requires impact tools or a long breaker bar to break free
• Old axle inner joint can be stubborn out of the differential — wear safety glasses
• C-clip on the inner stub must seat fully or the axle will work itself loose under throttle

Tools required

• floor jack
• jack stands
• 35mm socket
• 19mm socket
• breaker bar
• torque wrench
• pry bar
• hammer
• anti-seize
• wire brush

Parts

Part	Vendor	Est. price
Toyota OEM Front CV Axle (L/R) — 5th Gen	Toyota	~$420
Toyota Updated Axle Nut	Toyota	~$8
GSP Premium Loaded CV Axle	GSP	~$145
Cardone Select New CV Axle	Cardone	~$160

Sources

• How To Replace Front CV Axle — 4Runners.com
• Toyota 4Runner Front End Torque Specs (2020)
• OEM Toyota CV Axle 43430-60083
• 5th Gen 4Runner CV Boot Replacement Guide

Related

• Tie Rod Replacement
• Lower Ball Joint Replacement — 4th and 5th Gen
• All Toyota 4Runner guides & tools
• Browse the full DIY database

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Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.

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