Rear Lift Options — Spacers vs. New Coils

Difficulty 2/52–5 hrs$80–7002010-2024

If you only drive on pavement and want the truck level, a $100 rear spacer is fine. If you carry a roof rack, drawer system, or bumper, swap to new rear coils — spacers preload the stock spring, accelerate sag, and ride worse on every surface.

The 5th-gen 4Runner sags in the rear from the day you drive it home, and any added weight makes it worse. Stock rear coils were specced for a near-empty cargo area; bolt on a roof tent, sliders, a rear bumper with a tire carrier, and a Trasharoo full of recovery gear and you'll measure two-plus inches of rear droop within a few months. There are two ways to get the rear back up: a spacer that sits on top of the stock coil, or replacement coils sized for your real load.

Spacers are cheaper. A Daystar 1.5-inch rear coil spacer kit runs about $90 and installs in two hours. The catch is that a spacer doesn't fix anything — it pre-compresses the stock spring, which means the truck rides on a stiffer portion of the spring curve and the spring is closer to coil bind under articulation. Forum consensus on 4Runners.com and Trail4Runner is consistent: spacers ride harshly compared to new coils, both on and off-road. They're acceptable on a stock-weight, mall-crawler 4Runner that needs to look level. They're a bad answer on a built truck.

New coils are the right answer for any 4Runner carrying real weight. The three brands that come up over and over: Old Man Emu (OME 2890 medium-load coils at about $320 give 2 to 2.5 inches with up to 250 lb constant load), Dobinsons (variable-rate C59 series, around $360, broad load ratings), and Eibach Pro-Truck (around $280, slightly firmer ride). Pair them with appropriate shocks — Bilstein 5100s at $80 each for a budget setup, Bilstein 5160 remote reservoirs for heat dissipation on long trails, or Icon 2.0/2.5 series for a high-end build. Spring rate matters more than brand: get a constant-load coil rated for the weight you actually carry. OME's "medium" is right for a roof rack and some recovery gear. "Heavy" is right for a rear bumper and tire carrier. Going too heavy ride harshly; too light squats under load.

A common mistake: installing rear lift coils without addressing the upper control arms or sub-frame contact points. Once the rear is up 2+ inches, the rear shock may run out of droop travel — check shock length and consider extended-travel rear shocks if you've gone above 2.5 inches.

Steps

  1. Weigh the truck loaded with everything you usually carry (CAT scale or estimate by adding component weights).
  2. Pick a coil rated for that real-world weight — not stock weight.
  3. Remove the rear wheels; support the axle with a floor jack.
  4. Disconnect the rear sway bar end links and the rear shock lower bolts to let the axle drop further.
  5. Disconnect the rear track bar at the axle (leave the frame side).
  6. Lower the axle until the stock coils are loose; pull them out by hand.
  7. Install new coils with the isolator pads. Use a coil retainer if articulation is unrestricted.
  8. Reconnect shocks, end links, and track bar. Torque to spec.
  9. Drive 10 miles and re-measure ride height. Allow 100 miles for coils to settle.

Why it works

Trade-offs

Tools required

Parts

PartVendorEst. price
Daystar 1.5" rear coil spacer kitDaystar~$90
Old Man Emu 2890 rear coils (medium load)ARB / OME~$320
Dobinsons C59-319V variable rate rear coilsDobinsons~$360
Eibach Pro-Truck stage 2 rear coilsEibach~$280
Icon Stage 2 rear coil and shock kitIcon Vehicle Dynamics~$700

Sources

Related


Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.

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