Spark Plug Replacement — 1GR-FE 4.0L

Difficulty 3/52–4 hrs$80–1602003-2009, 2010-2024

The 1GR-FE V6 calls for nickel plugs at 30,000 miles. You can run Denso iridium long-life plugs to push the interval out, but plan on pulling the intake plenum to reach the rear three plugs on either choice.

The 1GR-FE 4.0L V6 in the 4th and 5th gen 4Runner has been one of Toyota's most reliable engines, but Toyota specced it with nickel-copper plugs and a short 30,000-mile interval. That short interval is the price you pay for getting at the rear three plugs — they sit underneath the upper intake plenum, and reaching them means removing six plenum bolts, the throttle body harness, and the PCV hose. Many owners buy iridium long-life plugs once and skip the chore for the next 100,000 miles.

OEM front-three plugs are Denso K20HR-U11 (Toyota 90919-01235) or NGK LFR6C11 (Toyota 90919-01236) — both nickel. The factory-equivalent iridium upgrade is Denso SK20HR11 (Denso #3438), which fits identically and runs roughly 100,000 miles. Gap spec is 0.043" (1.1mm) — verify with a feeler gauge on every new plug, even iridium pre-gapped sets, because shipping drops happen.

The front three plugs are manageable: pop the coil pack cover, unbolt each coil with a 10mm, lift it out, and pull the plug with a 5/8" deep socket on a long extension. Twenty minutes total. The rear three are the actual job. Sequence matters: disconnect the throttle body connectors, the EVAP line, the PCV hose, the brake booster vacuum hose, and unbolt the upper plenum (six 12mm bolts). Lift the plenum off, set it aside on a clean shop rag, and inspect the gasket — if it is the original rubberized gasket, replace it now (Toyota 17171-31040, about $35).

Torque the plugs to 13 ft-lb (17.5 N·m). The 1GR-FE uses 14mm plugs, but the same caution applies as any aluminum head — go past 18 ft-lb and you risk pulling threads. No anti-seize on the plug threads (Denso and NGK both say not to). A dab of dielectric grease in each coil boot keeps the boot from sticking the next time.

Reinstall the plenum with a fresh gasket if you pulled the old one. Hit each bolt in a crisscross pattern at 18 ft-lb. Reconnect every harness, hose, and clip you removed. Disconnect the battery for 5 minutes before reconnecting to force the ECU to relearn idle on first start.

Steps

  1. Cold engine. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the engine cover (pulls up off rubber grommets).
  3. Front three plugs first: unbolt each coil pack (10mm), lift coil, pull plug with 5/8" socket on a long extension.
  4. Verify gap (0.043"), install new plug hand-tight, torque to 13 ft-lb.
  5. Reinstall coil with dielectric grease in the boot.
  6. Rear three: disconnect throttle body connectors, EVAP line, PCV hose, brake booster line.
  7. Unbolt the upper plenum (six 12mm bolts). Lift off. Cover the lower intake openings with rags.
  8. Repeat coil-and-plug procedure on cylinders 2, 4, 6.
  9. Reinstall plenum with fresh gasket if needed. Torque bolts in a crisscross pattern to 18 ft-lb.
  10. Reconnect all hoses, sensors, and harnesses. Reconnect battery. Start, listen for vacuum leaks at the plenum gasket.

Why it works

Trade-offs

Tools required

Parts

PartVendorEst. price
Denso K20HR-U11 nickel (set of 6) — OEMToyota / Denso~$45
NGK LFR6C11 nickel (set of 6) — OEM altToyota / NGK~$42
Denso SK20HR11 iridium long-life (set of 6) — extended intervalDenso~$90
Dielectric greasePermatex~$4

Sources

Related


Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.

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