The transfer case skid is the one to buy first — a hit to the bottom of a Dana 20 cracks the case and ends your day, and a $220 plate is far cheaper than a transfer case. Engine and steering-box skids come next; the gas tank skid matters most if you've lifted and exposed the tank.
The early Bronco hangs its most expensive-to-replace parts low and unprotected: the oil pan, the Dana 20 transfer case, and the steering box all sit where a rock finds them. A skid plate spreads the impact across the frame instead of letting a point load punch a hole.
The honest priority order is transfer case first, then engine/steering box, then fuel tank. The Dana 20's case is cast iron and cracks on a sharp hit; once it's cracked you're walking. The oil pan dents and can split a seam. The steering box bracket bends, which changes your steering geometry mid-trail.
Skid plates for the early Bronco are sold as a system or piece by piece. A transfer case / transmission skid bolts to the frame crossmember and the body mounts, cradling the bottom of the Dana 20. Engine skids protect the oil pan and often the steering box in one plate. Fuel tank skids matter once a lift exposes the tank below the frame rail.
Material is the deciding factor. 3/16" steel is the practical minimum for a skid that takes real rock hits; 1/4" is better for dedicated crawling but adds weight low and forward. Aluminum skids exist and save weight, but they gouge and deform on hard hits — fine for forest-road protection, less so for rocks.
Support the truck on jack stands at the frame so the drivetrain sits at normal load. Test-fit the skid against the crossmember and body mounts, checking for driveshaft and exhaust clearance through the full suspension travel — a skid that contacts the driveshaft at flex will destroy both. Mark and drill mounting holes, deburr and prime every hole to stop rust at the bare metal, then bolt up with Grade 8 hardware torqued to the kit spec (typically 75–90 ft-lb for 1/2" bolts).
Leave drain access. A good transfer case skid has a hole or a removable section over the drain plug so you can change fluid without dropping the whole plate. If yours doesn't, you'll be pulling the skid every fluid change.
Driveshaft clearance at full droop and full compression is the failure most people miss. Cycle the suspension before you call it done.
Ground clearance is a trade. A 1/4" plate hanging flat is now your lowest point and your new high-centering surface. Tuck skids tight to the components and angle the leading edge so the truck slides over rather than catching.
Trapped mud and water behind a skid rusts the frame and crossmember from the inside. Drill weep holes at the low points and clean behind the skids after wet trips.
A transfer case skid runs $180–280. An engine/steering-box skid is $130–220. A full early Bronco skid system runs $500–800. Budget universal weld-on plate is cheaper but rarely fits the EB drivetrain without fabrication. Add $35 for Grade 8 hardware.
Early Bronco-specific shops (Tom's Offroad, WFO Concepts, James Duff) cut skids to the EB frame and Dana 20. You probably don't need 1/4" plate everywhere — 3/16" protects everything short of dedicated rock crawling, and the weight saved low and forward helps the truck's manners.
| Part | Vendor | Est. price |
|---|---|---|
| Transfer case / transmission skid plate (early Bronco, Dana 20) | Tom's Offroad / WFO Concepts | ~$220 |
| Engine oil pan / steering box skid | Various EB fab | ~$160 |
| Grade 8 mounting hardware kit | Various | ~$35 |
Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.