A body lift raises the JK's body off the frame by 1 to 1.25 inches without changing suspension geometry — the cheapest way to fit larger tires without a full suspension lift, but it does not increase ground clearance under the axles or improve approach/departure angles.
The JK body is bolted to the frame at 14 body mount locations. A body lift kit replaces the factory rubber body mount pucks with taller polyurethane or aluminum spacers that push the body up relative to the frame. That gap creates enough clearance to run 33-inch tires on a stock suspension JK that would otherwise rub the fenders, and combined with a 2-inch suspension lift it allows 35s without a full lift system. The trade-off is real: because the frame and axles don't move, axle articulation, approach angle, and underbody clearance are unchanged. What you're buying is fender clearance, not ground clearance.
A 1-inch lift is the sweet spot. The 1.25-inch kits start to expose the body-to-frame gap visually, and the bump steer at the steering shaft becomes noticeable without a steering shaft spacer. Every quality kit includes a steering shaft spacer — if the kit you're looking at doesn't include one, buy it separately before starting the job.
On 2012–2018 JKs, the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) wiring and fuel filler neck need to be rechecked for stretch after the install. The fuel filler extension included in most kits handles the fuel neck — verify the TIPM harness has enough slack before torquing the final body mounts down.
**Tools:** socket set (10mm–19mm), torque wrench, breaker bar, floor jack, two jack stands, pry bar, trim removal tool, helper for body alignment
**Parts:** body lift kit appropriate to year (7-bolt front bumper kits differ from 14-mount full kits), body mount hardware if not included, steering shaft spacer
1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal and set the parking brake.
2. Remove or loosen the front bumper and fascia to access the front body mounts — do not skip this on full-width kit installs.
3. Starting at the rear body mounts, remove one body mount bolt at a time. Do NOT remove all bolts simultaneously — the body can shift dangerously.
4. Lift the body at that corner with the floor jack (use a block of wood to protect the body) and remove the factory puck. Install the new spacer and puck stack.
5. Replace the factory bolt with the longer supplied bolt. Thread by hand until body is lowered back onto the spacer.
6. Repeat for all 14 mounts, working rear-to-front.
7. Once all mounts are installed and hand-tight, use a pry bar at each mount to center the body on the spacers — misalignment causes binding.
8. Torque all body mount bolts to spec (typically 30–40 ft-lbs on the JK — confirm with your kit instructions).
9. Install the steering shaft spacer per the kit instructions.
10. Reconnect the fuel filler neck extension if applicable.
11. Reconnect the battery and verify all gap-sensitive components (fuel neck, TIPM harness, brake lines) are not under stress.
12. Check all four corners for door-to-body gap consistency before closing doors.
A Rugged Ridge or Rough Country kit runs $120–$180. TeraFlex kits are $179–$280 and use better hardware and tighter tolerances — worth the premium if you're pairing this with a suspension lift and want confidence in the hardware. Budget roughly $30 extra if your kit doesn't include a steering shaft spacer.
| Part | Vendor | Est. price |
|---|---|---|
| Rugged Ridge 1-Inch Body Lift Kit (JK) | Rugged Ridge | ~$139 |
| Rough Country 1.25-Inch Body Lift Kit (JK) | Rough Country | ~$119 |
| TeraFlex 1-Inch Body Lift Kit (JK) | TeraFlex | ~$179 |
Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.