The JL ships with a factory skid plate package on Rubicon trims — front axle and transfer case coverage. Sahara and Sport trim skids are plastic and cosmetic only. A full aftermarket skid system runs $400–$700 and covers oil pan, transfer case, fuel tank, and gas tank. Prioritize transfer case and fuel tank first.
# JL Wrangler Skid Plates: What to Protect and Which to Buy
The factory JL Rubicon skid package is one of the better factory setups on any production SUV: it includes steel coverage for the front axle and transfer case. But Sahara and Sport trims ship with plastic belly pans that protect against road debris, not rocks. And even on Rubicons, the fuel tank and rear differential get minimal coverage.
**Oil pan**: The lowest point on the 3.6L engine. A direct rock strike cracks the aluminum pan and puts you on the side of the trail.
**Transfer case**: Centered under the Jeep, protected on Rubicons by the NP241 or NP241OR factory skid. Still vulnerable on Sport/Sahara.
**Fuel tank**: Sits behind the rear axle. No factory armor on any JL trim. A rock punch through the tank is a serious situation — fire risk and you're stranded.
**Transmission pan**: Less exposed but worth covering on sustained ledgy trails.
**Front differential**: Covered adequately by most front skid packages.
**Priority order if budget is limited:**
1. Fuel tank skid
2. Transfer case (if not Rubicon)
3. Oil pan/transmission combo
4. Front differential
| Skid / Manufacturer | Coverage | Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rough Country full set | TC + oil pan + trans | $250–$350 | Budget; 3/16" steel; adequate for mild use |
| Skid Row Automotive full set | TC + oil pan + trans + fuel | $500–$700 | Mid-tier; 3/16" DOMEX; good fitment |
| Teraflex Armor set | Front + TC + trans | $550–$750 | Clean install; proven on Moab-level trails |
| Genright Atlas set | TC + oil pan + fuel + rear diff | $700–$900 | Premium; thicker plate, radiused edges |
| Artec Industries | Full underbody | $800–$1,100 | Welded construction; best in category |
**Prepare the vehicle**
1. Raise the JL on a hydraulic floor jack and support on jack stands at the frame. Do not work under a vehicle on a floor jack.
2. Slide under and identify the existing factory plastic belly pans and any factory steel skids. The plastic pans typically have plastic push-pin fasteners — a flathead pops the center pin, then the outer body pulls free.
**Remove factory pans**
3. Remove all plastic push pins from the existing belly pans. Most factory pans come down in sections — forward engine underbelly, then a middle section over the transmission and TC.
4. On Rubicons, the factory steel TC skid uses 13mm bolts threaded into weld nuts on the frame. Remove these bolts and lower the skid.
**Install the new skid**
5. Hold the new skid in position. Most aftermarket skids use the same factory mounting points with the provided hardware.
6. Thread all bolts in by hand before tightening any — skids need to shift slightly to align all holes.
7. Torque to spec (typically 30–40 ft-lbs for 13mm frame bolts on most skid manufacturers' specs).
**Fuel tank skid (separate install)**
8. The fuel tank skid typically replaces the factory plastic heat shield under the tank. Support the tank with a jack during removal of the heat shield retainers.
9. The new skid bolts to the fuel tank straps or uses frame-mounted brackets — varies by manufacturer. Follow the included instructions.
A complete fuel tank + transfer case + oil pan skid system for the JL runs $400–$700 from mid-tier manufacturers. This covers the three highest-risk areas. Factor in shop time ($100–$150) if you don't have jack stands — this is a straightforward under-vehicle job once you're safely supported.
Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.