Locker Upgrade Path for Power Wagon (Factory + Tru-Lok or ARB Bulletproofing)

Difficulty 4/56–12 hrs$0–18002014-2018, 2019-2024, 2025+

The Power Wagon comes from the factory with electronic locking front AND rear differentials — the only production truck in North America that does (no Raptor, no TRX, no Tacoma TRD Pro). For 95% of owners, the factory lockers are bulletproof and never need upgrading. This entry covers the 5% case: aftermarket replacement when a factory locker fails, or when you want a more rebuilable unit for serious rock-crawling.

The Power Wagon's factory Tru-Lok system is genuinely unique:

The factory units are NOT "limited slip" — they're real selectable lockers. When engaged, 100% of axle torque is split 50/50 between the wheels. Performance is on par with aftermarket ARB or Eaton units.

**For 95% of Power Wagon owners:** the factory lockers never need upgrading. Common issues are wiring (solenoid faults from corrosion at the connector) or actuator failures — these are repairs, not upgrades. See [[front-locker-elocker-troubleshooting]].

**The 5% case** where an aftermarket locker swap makes sense:

1. **Factory locker has physically failed** (cracked case, broken splines) — out of warranty, a new factory unit is $800-1,400 from Mopar. ARB or Eaton replacement is comparable cost, often with longer-term parts availability.

2. **You want a rebuildable unit for hard rock-crawling.** Factory Tru-Loks are sealed; ARB Air Lockers and Eaton ELockers can be field-rebuilt with replaceable internals. Worth it if you wheel 50+ days/year in rocks.

3. **You've re-geared and don't trust the factory carrier shim stack.** When the diff is open for a re-gear, swapping to ARB or Eaton at the same time saves labor. About $300 extra labor + the locker cost. See [[pw-regear-456]].

**For ARB Air Lockers** ($1,200 + compressor ~$400) — proven rock-crawl reference, needs an air compressor (Power Wagon owners often install one for tire airing-up anyway, so this is a small marginal cost).

**For Eaton ELockers** ($1,100, no compressor needed) — electronic activation like the factory unit, more straightforward wiring. The pick if you don't want to plumb air lines.

For aftermarket front: don't bother. The factory front locker is excellent and rarely fails. If it does fail, replace with factory Mopar.

For aftermarket rear: ARB or Eaton are both excellent. Choose based on whether you're running an air compressor anyway.

Honest framing: this is a $1,200 swap that 95% of Power Wagon owners will never need. The factory lockers really are that good. Read this entry as "what to do IF a factory unit fails" — not "what to install on a stock truck."

Why it works

Trade-offs

Tools required

Parts

PartVendorEst. price
(Already factory) Tru-Lok front locker — solenoid + selector switchRam Factory~$0
(Already factory) Tru-Lok rear lockerRam Factory~$0
ARB Air Locker rear AAM 11.5" (replacement, if factory rear fails)ARB~$1200
Eaton ELocker rear AAM 11.5" (alternative replacement)Eaton~$1100

Related


Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.