Skid Plate Kit for the Gen 1 Raptor — Oil Pan, Transfer Case, and Fuel Tank

Difficulty 2/52–4 hrs$399–9992010-2014

The Gen 1 Raptor's IFS underbody is exposed in ways a solid-axle rig's is not — at desert speeds over unexpected rocks and ledges, the oil pan, differential, and transfer case are directly in the strike zone, and skid plates are the lowest-cost way to protect the most expensive components.

The factory Raptor ships with a light plastic under-tray that handles road debris but is not a structural skid plate. At speed across the kind of terrain the Raptor's suspension invites — high desert washes, rocky ledges, fast trail crossings — the plastic deflects instead of protecting. The IFS geometry puts the oil pan, lower differential housing, and front driveshaft lower than you'd expect for a truck with 9" of suspension travel. When the suspension is at full compression over a ledge, those components are well within strike distance.

The key areas covered by a complete skid kit for the Gen 1 Raptor are: the oil pan (the most expensive single-strike repair at $600–$1,200 for the 6.2L), the front differential housing, the transfer case (NV273 on the Gen 1), and the fuel tank. Most full kits cover all four; some entry-level kits are oil pan and diff only. Budget accordingly — a partial kit that skips the fuel tank is saving the wrong money if you're running the truck on rocky terrain.

The 3/16" vs 1/4" steel question is about use case. 3/16" (approximately 4.8mm) is adequate for most trail and overland use — it absorbs a direct rock strike on a moving vehicle without deforming and bending into the component it's protecting. 1/4" is for rock crawling and repeated high-force impacts; on a Raptor, which is not a crawling platform, 3/16" is the practical choice and saves significant weight (a full 1/4" skid kit adds 60–80 lbs over a 3/16" equivalent). ADD and Zbroz both offer laser-cut 3/16" kits with proper mounting provisions; Zbroz's higher price point reflects thicker plate and more coverage area on their full kit.

The mounting system matters: a skid that uses existing frame bolts drops in without drilling, which is the right design. Avoid kits that require welding or that use the oil pan drain bolt as a mounting point — the latter complicates oil changes every time.

Steps

  1. Lift the front of the truck and support on jack stands at the frame rails. Do not jack under the IFS control arms.
  2. Clean the mounting areas on the frame with a wire brush. Apply penetrating oil to any factory undertray bolts that are corroded — on trucks that have seen salt or mud, these are routinely seized.
  3. Remove the factory plastic under-tray (typically 8–12 push-pins and two bolts). Discard or keep as a liner under the skid for rock debris management.
  4. Dry-fit the skid plate sections before committing to torque. Verify clearance around the drain plug, differential fill plug, and any underside inspection points.
  5. Install skids using the provided hardware. Torque to manufacturer spec — typically 35–45 ft-lb for 3/8" grade-8 mounting bolts. Over-torquing into aluminum frame threads is a common mistake; use a torque wrench.
  6. Confirm the oil drain plug is still accessible with the skid in place. Some designs require a short extension to reach it; a sealed square drain plug (like Fumoto) streamlines this.
  7. Drive over a moderate obstacle and inspect the skid for deformation or loosened hardware after the first run.

Why it works

Trade-offs

Tools required

Parts

PartVendorEst. price
ADD Offroad Gen 1 Raptor Skid Plate PackageAddictive Desert Designs~$549
Zbroz Racing Gen 1 Raptor Full Skid KitZbroz Racing~$699
DRC Fabrication Gen 1 Raptor Skid KitDRC Fabrication~$449
APS Gen 1 Raptor Full Underbody Skid SystemAPS~$599

Sources

Related


Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.

Trail Manual · About · Privacy · Terms · Database