Tie Rod Replacement

Replace worn Tacoma tie rod ends with 555 (Sankei) or Toyota OEM units; 555 is the same factory supplier as OEM at roughly half the price. Torque outer ends to 67 ft-lbs and count the threads when removing the old ones to preserve alignment.

The Tacoma uses an inner tie rod that threads into the steering rack and an outer tie rod end that attaches to the steering knuckle. Both wear. The outer tie rod end is the one most owners replace first because its ball joint develops play at 80,000-150,000 miles depending on mileage in dirt and salt exposure. Inner tie rods last longer but eventually develop play that you'll feel as on-center wander and a clunking sensation when crossing rough pavement.

The verdict on parts: 555 (Sankei) is what you want unless you have an OEM-or-bust religion. 555 is the actual factory supplier for Toyota inner tie rods on Tacomas and 4Runners. The 555 box and the Toyota box contain functionally the same part. Pay the Toyota markup if you want the Toyota box for warranty reasons; pay for 555 if you want the same part for less. Stay away from no-name imports from chain auto stores — many use looser tolerances on the ball stud and develop play within 20,000 miles.

Moog is also acceptable for Tacoma tie rods, particularly the problem-solver designs that have a grease fitting. Detroit Axle and TRQ have mixed track records — fine for daily drivers, less ideal for trucks running 33s and up.

A critical detail for the outer replacement: count the threads showing on the inner tie rod before removing the old outer, or measure from a fixed point to the lock nut. The new outer needs to be threaded on to the exact same depth or your toe alignment will be off and you'll burn the front tires. An alignment is recommended after any tie rod work, but a careful thread-count measurement gets you home safely and lets you drive to the alignment shop without dragging the tire sideways.

Tacomas pull the right side outer tie rod first more often than the left because of cambered roads and the way the steering geometry loads. If only one side is bad, replace both anyway — the other side is on a similar timeline and you don't want this job again in six months.

Steps

1. Loosen the front lug nuts. Jack the front of the truck, set jack stands under the frame, and pull both front wheels.
2. For an outer tie rod swap: count the threads visible between the inner tie rod boot and the outer tie rod end. Photograph for reference.
3. Crack the lock nut where the outer threads onto the inner tie rod (21mm). Do not fully back it off yet.
4. Pull the cotter pin from the castle nut on the outer ball stud. Remove the castle nut (19mm).
5. Separate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle using a tie rod puller or pickle fork. Pickle forks tear the boot — only use one if you're replacing the part anyway.
6. Unscrew the outer tie rod from the inner shaft, counting turns.
7. Thread the new outer onto the inner the same number of turns. Reinstall through the steering knuckle. Torque castle nut to 67 ft-lbs, then advance to the nearest cotter pin hole and install a new cotter pin.
8. Snug the lock nut against the new outer at 35-40 ft-lbs.
9. For inner tie rod replacement: remove the outer first (above), then pull the rack boot clamps off and slide the boot back to expose the inner.
10. Use an inner tie rod removal tool (purchasable or rentable) to break the inner loose from the rack. Inner torque from factory is high — expect to put real force into it.
11. Thread the new inner in. Torque inner to 60 ft-lbs against the rack housing.
12. Slide the boot back, install new clamps, reinstall the outer, and torque to spec.
13. Reinstall wheels. Torque lug nuts to 83 ft-lbs.
14. Drive directly to an alignment shop. Toe is the alignment angle most affected by tie rod work and the only one you can't eyeball.

Why it works

• 555 brand is the same factory supplier — half the cost of Toyota-boxed OEM
• Restores tight on-center steering feel that mileage steals slowly
• Outer-only replacement is a one-hour job per side

Trade-offs

• Outer ball stud is corroded into the knuckle on rust-belt trucks and may require heat to release
• Inner tie rod requires a dedicated tool to remove cleanly
• Alignment is mandatory after — budget the shop visit into the job

Tools required

• floor jack
• jack stands
• 19mm socket
• 21mm wrench
• tie rod separator (pickle fork or puller)
• torque wrench
• needle-nose pliers
• hammer

Parts

Part	Vendor	Est. price
555 (Sankei) Outer Tie Rod End	555 / Sankei	~$38
555 (Sankei) Inner Tie Rod	555 / Sankei	~$45
Toyota OEM Outer Tie Rod End	Toyota	~$85
Toyota OEM Inner Tie Rod Assembly	Toyota	~$110

Sources

• Step-By-Step Outer Tie Rod End Replacement — 2G/3G Tacoma
• Tie Rod Ends: 555 vs OEM Discussion — 4Runner Forum
• Tacoma Inner Tie Rod Torque Spec
• 2017 Tacoma Front End Torque Specs

Related

• Lower Ball Joint Replacement — 1st and 2nd Gen
• All Toyota Tacoma guides & tools
• Browse the full DIY database

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Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.

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