TJ Fender Flares — Replacing or Upgrading for Wider Tires
Running 33s on a stock TJ you need wider flares to stay legal — stock flares cover stock width. Budget flares from Smittybilt bolt straight to stock holes; tube fenders need drilling but look cleaner with big lifts.
Most states, Arizona included, require tires to be covered to at least the centerline of the axle, and some go further and require coverage of the full tread width. Stock TJ flares cover roughly a 31-inch tire at stock track width — move to 33s with any amount of lift and the tire sidewall starts poking past the fender line. The fix is either wider replacement flares or tube fenders, depending on how aggressive the build is going. Rules vary enough by state that "check your state's exact wording" is the honest answer rather than a specific inch measurement that may not hold everywhere.
For 33s and mild lifts (2.5 to 3 inches), a flat-style or extended OEM-style replacement flare adds 1 to 2 inches of coverage per side and installs in the factory clip holes. Bushwacker's Flat Style and Smittybilt's replacement flares are the common choices — both are OE-style ABS plastic, bolt on without drilling, and run $100 to $180 for the pair. They look stock enough to not draw attention.
For 35s and serious lift (4+ inches), tube fenders are the better answer. They add more coverage, they don't crack when a rock hits them like OEM-profile ABS flares do, and they clear the tire at full articulation rather than at ride height. The tradeoff is drilling into the body for mounting bolts. Rugged Ridge tube flares run $180 and are considered entry-level. Poison Spyder's tube fenders are sheetmetal, look right, and hold up to rock contact — closer to $400. If you're building a rock crawler, metal tube fenders are worth it.
There's a middle option worth knowing about before you commit to drilling: some flat-style flares are available in a slightly wider "extended" profile (roughly 3" over stock rather than the standard 1–2") that stretches coverage far enough for a mild 35 setup without going to tube fenders at all. It's worth checking exact coverage-width specs against your tire and lift combination before ruling either style out — the line between "flat flare is enough" and "you need tube fenders" moves with backspacing and wheel offset as much as it does with tire diameter.
ABS plastic flares (the OEM-style bolt-ons) are UV-stressed over years in the sun and eventually crack at the mounting tabs, especially in hot climates. If your TJ's factory flares are already brittle and cracking on their own before you've even changed tire size, that's a separate reason to replace them even at stock tire width — a cracked flare doesn't do its job in a hard rain or on a muddy trail regardless of what's mounted underneath it.
- Replacement flares matched to TJ (OEM-style) or tube fenders
- 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool for stock flare removal
- Drill and step bit if installing tube fenders that require new mounting points
- Wire brush and touchup paint — the areas under the flares are usually surface-rusted on high-mileage TJs
- Turn signal relocation harness if converting to tube fenders (the stock flare carries the front marker light on some trims)
- Remove old flares. The stock TJ flares clip to the fender lip and secure with 10mm bolts at the wheel arch. Pop the clips with a trim tool, remove bolts, and lift flare off. It takes about 15 minutes per flare.
- Clean the mounting surface. Scrub any rust with a wire brush and hit bare metal with rattle-can primer. You won't see this area again for years.
- Install replacement OEM-style flares. Align over stock clip holes, press in clips, torque bolts. Test fit before final torque — misaligned flares look worse than old ones.
- For tube fenders: Test fit and mark drill points before committing. Drill pilot holes with a small bit first, then step up to final diameter with a step bit rather than jumping straight to a large twist bit — it's easier to keep the hole round and centered that way on sheetmetal this thin. Deburr and prime every hole edge before final bolt-up; bare edges are where rust starts.
- Relocate the front marker light if needed. Tube fenders don't have a housing for the stock side marker/turn signal on trims that route it through the flare. Splice in the relocation harness and mount the light to the tube frame or bumper before buttoning up the fender.
- Bolt through with stainless hardware and locking nuts. Star washers or thread locker on top of the locking nut are cheap insurance against a bolt backing out on the trail.
- Check clearance at full lock and full droop. Turn the wheel lock-to-lock with the Jeep on the ground. Check for rub points at full flex with a friend compressing the suspension by hand, and re-check after the first real trail run once everything has had a chance to settle and flex under load.
- Tube fenders require re-locating the turn signal. Budget an extra hour and a turn signal relocation harness ($20–$30).
- Inspect the inner fender area for rust before reinstalling any flare — this is a common rust accumulation zone on older TJs from wet climates.
- Not all "TJ flares" fit all years — check your year before ordering. A few flare kits fit either TJ or JK but not both.
- Confirm your state's exact coverage requirement before finalizing tire width and flare choice — "centerline" and "full tread" are different standards and the gap between them is where a technically-legal setup can still draw a warning.
OEM-style replacement flares: $90–$180 installed in under an hour with no drilling. Tube fenders: $180–$400 depending on material, plus 3–4 hours of work, a turn signal relocation ($20–$30), and touch-up primer for the drilled edges. Sheetmetal tube fenders outlast plastic alternatives in rock use.
Tools required
- 10mm socket
- flat-blade screwdriver
- trim clip removal tool
- drill with bits (for tube flares)
- rivet gun (optional)
- step bit (for tube flare mounting holes)
Parts
| Part | Vendor | Est. price |
|---|---|---|
| Bushwacker Flat Style fender flares — TJ | Bushwacker | ~$160 |
| Smittybilt XRC replacement fender flares | Smittybilt | ~$110 |
| Rugged Ridge tube fender flare kit | Rugged Ridge | ~$190 |
| Poison Spyder tube fenders (sheetmetal) | Poison Spyder | ~$380 |
| Turn signal relocation harness — tube fender conversion | Rugged Ridge | ~$25 |
Sources
Related
- TJ Soft Top Replacement
- TJ Battery Replacement and Upgrade Guide
- Running 35" Tires on the TJ — Lift and Fitment Requirements
- All Jeep Wrangler TJ guides & tools
- Browse the full DIY database
Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. How we source guides. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.