TJ rear drums are underappreciated and often neglected — most owners replace front pads and ignore the rears. Glazed shoes and a misadjusted star wheel are responsible for more TJ brake fade than worn pads.
The TJ runs rear drum brakes on all trims (base and Rubicon). They're a fully mechanical system: two curved brake shoes press against the inside of a cast drum when the wheel cylinder extends. The parking brake integrates here too — a cable pulls the rear shoes directly. Drum brakes self-adjust through a star wheel adjuster when the vehicle is driven in reverse and the brakes are applied, but that adjuster gets lazy over time and the shoes drift away from the drum, extending pedal travel.
Service life on rear shoes is typically 40,000 to 60,000 miles in normal use, but varies widely — high-mileage off-road use shortens it, mostly because grit gets past the drum and acts as an abrasive. Glazed shoes (shiny, hardened contact surface) can happen earlier if the Jeep sat for a long time without use, which locks the shoes against the drum and bakes them.
This job requires more patience than skill. Drum brakes have a lot of springs under significant tension and the geometry of how they go back together matters. Take a photo before disassembly.
1. **Break lug nuts loose before jacking.** Lift the rear axle on the pumpkin (center differential housing) to lift both sides at once. Place jack stands under the axle tubes.
2. **Remove wheels and drums.** Most TJ drums pull straight off once the wheels are removed. If the drum won't come off, back off the star wheel adjuster — there's an access hole in the backing plate. Never hammer a drum off the hub; you'll damage the wheel studs.
3. **Photo before disassembly.** Drum brake layout seems obvious until it isn't. A quick photo saves 20 minutes of head-scratching.
4. **Remove return springs first.** Use brake spring pliers. There are two shoe return springs at the top, one at the bottom, and a self-adjuster spring. The return springs are under the most tension — respect them.
5. **Remove hold-down pins, adjuster, and shoes.** The hold-down pins go through the backing plate and are retained by a clip you rotate 90 degrees. The adjuster star wheel assembly pulls out once the shoes are free.
6. **Clean the backing plate.** Wire brush any rust off the shoe contact pads on the backing plate. Apply a thin film of high-temp brake grease to those pads only — not to the drum contact surface on the shoes.
7. **Install new shoes in reverse order.** Hardware kit replaces all springs and pins — don't reuse stretched springs. The longer shoe (primary) faces forward; the shorter (secondary) faces rearward.
8. **Adjust the star wheel.** Expand the adjuster until the drum drags slightly as you spin it, then back off until it spins freely with light drag. This sets the initial clearance.
9. **Reinstall drums, wheels. Torque lugs to 95 ft-lb.**
10. **Pump brakes until firm before moving the Jeep.** The wheel cylinders need to extend to seat the new shoes.
11. **Bed the shoes.** Drive at 30 mph, apply moderate brake pressure to slow to 5 mph (don't stop). Repeat 6–8 times. This seats the shoe-to-drum contact surface.
Shoe set: $28–$45. Hardware kit: $18. New drums if needed: $40–$55 each (most TJs need them by 80,000 miles). Full rear drum service parts total: $65–$120. Don't skip the hardware kit — springs fatigue and the $18 replacement is cheap relative to pulling the drums again.
| Part | Vendor | Est. price |
|---|---|---|
| Raybestos Professional Grade rear brake shoe set | Raybestos | ~$28 |
| Wagner ThermoQuiet rear shoe set | Wagner | ~$32 |
| Brake drum hardware kit (springs, adjuster, pins) | Dorman / ACDelco | ~$18 |
| Bendix rear drums (if scoring requires replacement) | Bendix | ~$45 |
Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.