For a 5th gen 4Runner running 33s, the cleanest wheel spec is a 17x8.5 with around 0 to +15mm offset (roughly 4.75"–5" backspacing). That pushes the tire out enough to clear the upper control arm and sway bar at full stuff without throwing the tire so far out that it batters the fender and loads the wheel bearings.
The 5th gen 4Runner uses a 5x150mm bolt pattern — the same as the Tundra and shared with several Toyota trucks, which narrows your wheel options compared to the common 6x139.7 pattern but still leaves good choices. The factory wheels run a high positive offset (around +15mm with deep backspacing), which tucks the tire under the fender for on-road manners. When you add bigger tires, that factory offset is part of why they rub: the tire sits too far inboard and contacts the UCA, the sway bar, and the inner fender liner during articulation and steering.
Offset and backspacing describe the same thing from two directions. Offset is the distance from the wheel's mounting face to its centerline — positive means the face is outboard of center (tire tucks in), negative means inboard (tire pokes out). Backspacing is the distance from the mounting face to the inner lip. Lower (or negative) offset and less backspacing push the tire outward, gaining clearance from suspension components at the cost of a wider track, more fender contact, and added leverage on the wheel bearings and ball joints. The goal is the least poke that clears your tires — not maximum stance.
Nothing to measure your current setup but a tape measure and a straightedge laid across the wheel face. To change fitment, either new wheels in your target offset or wheel spacers to effectively reduce the offset of the wheels you have.
1. Identify your current wheel's offset (often stamped on the back, e.g. "ET15") and width
2. Decide your tire target — 33s on a 5th gen generally want the tire moved out from the factory position to clear the UCA and sway bar
3. For new wheels, target 17x8.5 at roughly 0 to +15mm offset (about 4.75"–5" backspacing) as the proven 33" range
4. To measure backspacing on a wheel: lay a straightedge across the back rim, measure from the straightedge down to the mounting face
5. If using spacers instead of new wheels, a 1.25"–1.5" spacer reduces effective offset by that amount — use hub-centric, properly torqued spacers and re-torque after the first drive
6. Test fit and cycle the steering lock-to-lock and the suspension through its travel (or wheel a known obstacle) to check for rubbing before committing
More poke is not free — every millimeter outboard adds leverage on the wheel bearings, ball joints, and steering components, and accelerates their wear, so don't run more negative offset than you need to clear your tires. Spacers are a legitimate tool, but only hub-centric spacers properly torqued and re-checked; cheap lug-centric spacers are a safety risk. Watch for fender liner and pinch-weld contact at full stuff with wide, low-offset setups — a little fender trimming or a body-mount chop is often part of fitting 33s+ cleanly. Wider track also means more spray and stone-chipping down the body side, and it can push the tire past the fender's legal coverage in some jurisdictions.
A set of capable 17x8.5 aftermarket wheels in the right offset runs $900–$1,200 (Method around $230 each, forged options like SCS more). Quality hub-centric spacers are about $150–$200 a pair and are the budget way to fix offset on factory or existing wheels. The cheapest move is to verify your current offset first — sometimes the wheels you have will clear your tires with a modest spacer, saving the cost of a new set entirely.
| Part | Vendor | Est. price |
|---|---|---|
| Method Race Wheels 17x8.5 (+0 offset, 5x150) | Method Race Wheels | ~$230 |
| SCS Stealth 6 Forged Wheel (17x8.5, configurable offset) | SCS Wheels | ~$410 |
| Spidertrax 1.25" Wheel Spacers (5x150, pair) | Spidertrax | ~$180 |
Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.