Every 3,000 miles or after every water crossing: tie rod ends (2), drag link ends (2), front driveshaft U-joints (2), rear driveshaft U-joints (2), front and rear slip yokes (2), and the steering bell crank if equipped (1). Eleven shots total. Five minutes with a grease gun.
The CJ-5 chassis is built around grease-able joints — almost everything that pivots has a zerk fitting in it. Modern Jeeps have moved to sealed bearings and non-greaseable joints; the CJ-5 has not. Keep the grease fresh and the joints last decades. Skip it and they wear out in two seasons.
The full count depends on year and options. A 1976 CJ-5 with manual steering has roughly 11 zerks. With power steering, you lose the bell crank (3 zerks dropped) but gain the steering box if it's set up for it. Add a CV-jointed front driveshaft and you've added another zerk at the CV center. Some rebuilt steering knuckles include grease fittings for the kingpins or trunnions — those add four more shots.
Locations to hit, working front to back:
The steering links — the long drag link (running from pitman arm to driver-side knuckle) has a zerk at each end. The tie rod (running across both knuckles, behind the axle) has a zerk at each end. Four shots total at the steering, more if the bell crank is still in service.
Front driveshaft — one zerk on each U-joint (front of shaft and rear of shaft), one on the slip yoke (the splined section that telescopes). Three shots. Rear driveshaft is the same — three more shots. The slip yoke zerks often sit at awkward angles; a flexible grease-gun hose helps.
Front axle U-joints (inside the steering knuckles) — these are the inner CV-style U-joints that let the front wheels turn while still spinning. Most stock axles do NOT have zerks here; if yours does (aftermarket Spicer or rebuilt with greaseable U-joints), use a needle-tip adapter and put one pump in each side. Over-grease them and the joint will blow a boot.
Don't over-grease anything. Two to four pumps per zerk on the steering and driveshafts is enough. You want to see fresh grease start to emerge from the joint seal, not a fountain. Excess grease ends up on the trail and is wasted, except on the slip yokes — those benefit from being packed full because the shaft cycles inside.
Lucas Red 'N Tacky in a standard 14-oz tube is the working person's grease — sticky enough that it doesn't fling off, cheap enough that you'll actually do the service. Mobil 1 Synthetic is better for the front axle U-joints if the rig sees extreme heat or deep water.
| Part | Vendor | Est. price |
|---|---|---|
| Lucas Red 'N Tacky grease cartridge | Lucas Oil | ~$6 |
| Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease cartridge | Mobil | ~$12 |
| Lock-N-Lube grease coupler | Lock-N-Lube | ~$35 |
Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.