Oil Change — 1GR-FE 4.0L V6

Difficulty 1/50.5–1 hrs$40–802003-2009, 2010-2024

The 1GR-FE 4.0L V6 holds 6.4 quarts of 0W-20 (5th gen 2010+) or 5.5 quarts of 5W-30 (4th gen 2003–2009). Cartridge filter is on the bottom of the engine with a built-in drain valve. Drain plug torque 27 ft-lb, filter housing 18 ft-lb. Job takes 30–60 minutes.

The 1GR-FE V6 powers every 4Runner from 4th gen (2003) through 5th gen (2010–2024). The 4th gen used 5W-30 conventional or blend; the 5th gen switched to 0W-20 full synthetic for fuel economy. Either works mechanically — match the manual to keep warranty and CARB OBD-II monitors happy.

Cartridge filter design. Toyota's cartridge filter sits on the bottom of the engine, behind the front skid plate. It has a clever drain valve — thread a small plastic drain tool (included in the Toyota filter kit) into the bottom of the housing first, and oil drains out through a hose you can route into your pan. This keeps oil off the skid plate. Without the drain tool, oil sprays everywhere when you crack the housing.

Cap socket. 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap socket fits both gens. Cheap aluminum versions strip teeth out of the cap — buy the steel version (~$15 at any parts store) once and keep it for life.

Skid plate access. Stock front skid plate has an oval cutout that gives you access to the filter and drain plug without dropping the skid. Aftermarket skids (Rago Fabrication, RCI, BAMF) keep the access port; bare-bones plate-style skids don't, and you'll have to drop them. Plan accordingly.

Oil choice. 0W-20 full synthetic is correct for 5th gen. Mobil 1 EP, Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline EP, and Toyota TGMO branded oils are all SN+/SP-rated and work fine. For high-mileage 4Runners (200K+) some owners step up to 5W-30 to quiet a slightly noisy timing chain — Toyota's TSB allows this in hot climates without warranty implications.

Steps

  1. Run engine 2–3 minutes to warm and thin the oil. Shut off.
  2. Lift the front of the truck or work over ramps. The skid plate access port should align with the filter housing.
  3. Position drain pan under the drain plug (rear of oil pan). Remove 14mm drain plug. Drain 5+ minutes.
  4. While draining, thread the small plastic drain tool (from the Toyota filter kit) into the bottom of the filter housing. Oil will drain through it into your pan.
  5. Once filter housing is drained, use the 64mm cap socket to remove the housing cover. Lift out the old cartridge.
  6. Wipe the housing clean. Replace both O-rings on the cover (one large, one small for the drain valve plug).
  7. Snap the new cartridge into the cover. Reinstall, torque to 18 ft-lb (25 Nm). Do not exceed — the aluminum housing strips.
  8. Remove the drain tool from the housing. Install the small drain valve plug with its new O-ring. Snug, no torque spec, do not overtighten.
  9. Install drain plug with new aluminum crush washer. Torque to 27 ft-lb (37 Nm).
  10. Add 6.4 qt (5th gen) or 5.5 qt (4th gen) of correct viscosity oil through the valve cover fill cap.
  11. Start engine. Verify oil pressure light goes out within 3 seconds. Idle 30 seconds.
  12. Shut off, wait 5 minutes, check dipstick. Top off as needed.

Why it works

Trade-offs

Tools required

Parts

PartVendorEst. price
0W-20 full synthetic (6.4 qt 2010+ / 5.5 qt 4th gen)Toyota / API SP equivalent~$35
Toyota cartridge oil filter kitToyota~$8
Drain plug gasket (aluminum washer)Toyota~$1

Sources

Related

Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.

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