The TJ is coil-sprung, so a true leaf "spring-over" does not apply the way it does to a YJ — the big-lift path here is a long-arm or coilover conversion, not flipping springs. If you are chasing 6 inches and 37s, that is a fabrication build with steering and driveline work, not a bolt-on. For most TJs, stop at a 4-inch short-arm and 33s.
Because the TJ uses coils and control arms front and rear, gaining serious height means re-engineering the geometry, not relocating a leaf pack. The two real paths past ~4 inches are a long-arm kit (relocated mounts, longer arms) or a coilover conversion (the dedicated crawler route). Both are welding-and-fabrication jobs.
Three things must be addressed together or the truck becomes unsafe: steering geometry (a high-steer or drop-pitman setup keeps the drag link and track bar parallel), driveline angle (a slip-yoke eliminator with a CV driveshaft is mandatory), and brake-line and bump-stop lengths. Skip any one and you get death wobble, vibration, or a snapped line at full droop.
A 6-inch, 37-inch TJ is a trailer-or-dedicated-crawler build. It will not drive like a stocker, and the higher center of gravity needs the wider track and careful tuning that come with a real coilover kit. If you mostly daily-drive and hit trails on weekends, the payoff is not there.
Run a 4-inch short-arm on 33s and you have a TJ that crawls hard and still drives home comfortably. Reach for the long-arm or coilover conversion only when the trail genuinely demands 35s-plus and you are ready for the fabrication, the steering work, and the driveline cost that come with it.
| Part | Vendor | Est. price |
|---|---|---|
| Long-arm or coilover conversion kit | Clayton/Rock Krawler/EVO | ~$2800 |
| SYE + CV driveshaft | JB Conversions/Tom Woods | ~$700 |
| High-steer / drop-pitman steering kit | various | ~$400 |
Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.