A 4" lift on the Power Wagon opens up 37" tires, meaningfully improves departure angle, and puts you in a different league for approach geometry on technical trails. The thing that determines whether the install goes well is not the springs — it is whether the kit corrects the track bar, caster, and steering geometry that a coil-sprung solid axle throws out of alignment the moment you raise it. Buy the kit for its geometry parts, not its lift number.
Clear up a persistent piece of misinformation first, because it sends people to the wrong parts shelf: the 2014+ Power Wagon is coil-sprung at both ends and has no air suspension and no leaf springs.
Front: solid AAM 9.25" axle on coil springs, located by a three-link with a track bar, damped by conventional shocks. There are no struts anywhere on this truck.
Rear: solid AAM 11.5" axle on coil springs, located by a five-link with its own track bar.
Rear air suspension is an option on other Ram 2500 trims — it is not offered on the Power Wagon. If a kit's instructions talk about air bag travel range or rear leaf packs, it was written for a different truck.
That architecture is why lifting a Power Wagon is a geometry job. Raise a leaf-sprung axle and the springs still locate it. Raise a coil-sprung, track-bar-located axle and you have shifted the axle sideways relative to the frame, rotated the caster out of spec, changed the drag link angle into bump steer, and moved the pinion out of phase with the driveshaft. A kit that ships four springs and four shocks has addressed none of that.
Check the parts list against this before you buy. Anything missing you will be ordering later at retail.
Front
Taller coil springs rated for the Power Wagon's nose weight (~4,600-5,000 lb on the front axle before you add a bumper)
Adjustable track bar or a track bar relocation bracket — without it the front axle sits roughly an inch off-center and the truck tracks visibly crooked
Caster correction: adjustable upper control arms, or cam bolts, targeting the factory window (typically around 4-5 degrees positive, verified against your model year's spec, and measured with the truck at ride height on the ground)
Drop pitman arm or corrected drag link to pull the steering linkage back parallel with the track bar — mismatched angles between the two is textbook bump steer, and on a 7,000 lb truck it feels like the front end is hunting
Bump stop extensions so the tire does not find the fender or the coil does not coil-bind before the bump stop does
Front shocks lengthened to suit ride height
Rear
Taller coils or a spacer appropriate to the coil rate
Adjustable rear track bar, same reason as the front
Longer rear shocks
Pinion angle check — at 4" the rear driveshaft operating angle grows enough to matter; if the kit does not include adjustable rear control arms, plan to measure and possibly shim
Both ends
Extended brake lines, front and rear. This is the safety item people skip. A stock line at 4" of lift can go taut at full droop and tear. Order stainless extended lines and route them clear of the coils.
ABS harness and wiring slack at each corner
Sway bar link length — and this is Power Wagon specific, below
The electronic sway bar disconnect. The Power Wagon's front bar disconnects hydraulically below 18 mph in 4WD, and the actuator and its linkage have a fixed geometry. A generic Ram 2500 kit's sway bar drop bracket or extended end links may not preserve the disconnect's engagement travel, leaving you with a bar that will not re-latch or one that binds. Confirm the kit is validated against the disconnect system, and after install run a full connect/disconnect cycle on jack stands before you drive it. The sway bar disconnect service guide covers what a failed re-latch looks like.
Articulink joints. The extra pivot joints at the axle end of the front control arms are what give the Power Wagon its articulation advantage, and they are a wear item. Lifting increases the static angle they sit at. Inspect them during the install while the front end is apart — the Articulink explainer has the check procedure, and doing it now costs nothing extra.
Gearing. Factory ratio is 4.10 front and rear on the 6.4L Hemi (410 hp / 429 lb-ft). At 35" the truck is acceptable on 4.10s. At 37" it is not — the effective ratio drops enough that the truck feels flat off the line, the 6-speed hunts on grades, and transmission temperatures climb while towing. Plan a 4.56 regear as part of the 37" decision, not as a later fix; see the regear guide and the mud-terrain tire guide for the full bill.
Load rating. GVWR on a 2019+ Power Wagon is 8,510 lb against a curb weight near 6,900 lb. At 37", buy tires by load index, not by size — a P-metric or light-duty LT casing in a 37 will be under-rated for this truck's front axle.
Budget a full weekend and expect one seized fastener. Work one axle at a time so the truck stays located.
Document ride height first. Measure fender-lip-to-hub-center at all four corners with the truck on level ground and write it down. This is your before-and-after reference and your sag check later.
Park on level ground, chock, and support the frame on jack stands with a second jack under the axle you are working on.
Remove wheels. Soak all suspension fasteners in penetrant and give it fifteen minutes.
Front: disconnect the sway bar end links and the shocks. Support the axle, then loosen the track bar at the frame before unloading the coils.
Lower the axle in controlled steps, watching brake lines and the ABS harness for tension. Swap the coils.
Install the track bar bracket or adjustable bar, the caster correction, and the drop pitman arm. Leave everything finger-tight.
Install extended brake lines and bleed the front circuit.
Rear: support the axle, remove shocks, unload and swap the rear coils, install the adjustable rear track bar, then extended rear lines and bleed.
Reinstall wheels, lower the truck to the ground, and bounce it to settle the suspension before final torque.
Torque every suspension fastener at ride height, not at full droop. Bushings clamped at droop are pre-loaded wrong and will tear. Follow the kit's torque sheet.
Center the axles. Measure frame-rail-to-tire on both sides at each axle and set the adjustable track bars until the axle is centered under the truck.
Cycle the sway bar disconnect through connect and disconnect, and check for contact at full lock both directions.
Alignment. A four-wheel alignment on an HD truck runs $150-250. Set caster to spec, confirm toe, and re-check after 500 miles.
Re-torque at 500 miles and re-check ride height for settling.
Death wobble. A lifted Ram HD with a loose or mis-angled track bar, worn ball joints, or a tired steering damper is the classic recipe. If the truck develops a violent front-end oscillation after a bump, stop driving it and inspect the track bar ends, drag link, tie rod, and ball joints before anything else.
Front sag over the first month. Coil springs settle. Half an inch is normal; more than that means the spring rate is under-specified for your nose weight, especially if you have added a steel bumper and winch.
Driveline vibration appearing above 55 mph — measure pinion and driveshaft operating angles rather than guessing.
Fuel economy. Expect a 3-4 mpg hit at 37" with the added rotating mass and frontal area. That is not a kit defect.
Line item
Typical cost
4"-4.5" Power Wagon-compatible lift system
$1,500-2,700
Adjustable front track bar (if not in kit)
$300-450
Caster correction arms (if not in kit)
$400-800
Extended brake lines, front + rear
$120-220
Bump stop extensions
$50-100
Four-wheel alignment
$150-250
Shop install (10-16 hr)
$1,200-2,200
DIY all-in
$2,100-4,300
Shop all-in
$3,300-6,500
Before buying, confirm two things in writing with the vendor: that the kit is validated for the Power Wagon's electronic sway bar disconnect, and that it includes or accommodates track bar correction at both axles. A vendor that cannot answer those has not tested on this truck. If 4" is more than the build needs, the 3" mid-lift clears 35s with far less geometry work and is the better value for most owners.
A 4" lift on a Power Wagon is a coil-spring geometry project, not a spring swap — budget for track bars, caster correction, steering correction, and extended brake lines, and confirm the kit respects the factory sway bar disconnect. Pair it with 37s and a 4.56 regear if you actually crawl; stop at 3" and 35s if you do not.
Tools required
floor jack
jack stands
torque wrench
socket set
breaker bar
coil spring compressor
pry bar
angle finder
penetrating oil
alignment shop appointment
Parts
Part
Vendor
Est. price
4" coil-spring lift system, Ram 2500 Power Wagon specific
Written and maintained by an AZ wheeler and driveway wrencher. Always cross-reference your factory service manual — modifications affect vehicle safety and warranty. Work at your own risk.